Dog Training: How To Stop The Chewing Problem

Dog Training: How To Stop The Chewing Problem

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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Dog Training: How To Stop The Chewing Problem

Dog Training: How To Stop The Chewing Problem

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Posted: Sep 27, 2005 |Comments: 0
| Views: 196 |

Many people have begun the task of getting there dog or puppy
into a dog training school. There are a lot of aspects that are
gone over in dog training classes. Unfortunately, one part of
dog training that is not gone over very well in dog training
classes is chewing.

It is hard to go over a chewing problem in dog training classes
because dogs often have nothing to chew on or destroy while in
the class! If you are one of those people who are in dog
training classes, but you still need help with chewing, please
read on.

This type of dog training can be for dogs young and old. Many
people find this part of dog training to be more common in
puppies. But older dogs have been know to need this type of dog
training because they love to chew things up while their owners
are away!

To begin this type of dog training, you must first realize that
all dogs chew. Dogs need to chew. So when you begin, make sure
you have several things that are ok for your dog to chew on.
Then begin your dog training by keeping all of your dogs chewing
toys in one location.

This way, your dog will learn to associate this spot with his or
her chew toys. You must do this in order for this type of dog
training to work. Try to have the dog toys in a “toy box” for
your dog.

During this dog training, never spank or hit your dog if you
catch it chewing on something it is not allowed to. Instead, for
effective dog training, praise your dog and pet it when it chews
on what it is supposed to chew on.

It has been shown that dogs respond much better to positive
praise and positive dog training. If the dog continues to chew
on things that it shouldn’t, verbally reprimand it. Your tone of
voice will be enough punishment and is the only punishment
necessary for this kind of dog training.

Another method of dog training you can try is to put a taste
deterrent on the items your dog shouldn’t chew. This Dog
Training chew deterrent is called “bitter apple” and it is
available at most pet stores.

These are the most effective means of dog training that will
teach your dog not to chew on inappropriate things. If you
follow all of these aspects, your dog training should go more
smoothly.

Dog training can be a fun and rewarding experience…as long as
all of your favorite things aren’t chewed up in the process!
Keep calm and be patient to achieve good results

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Amy Howells -
About the Author:

Amy Howells is an expert dog trainer and author. Visit http://www.dog-owner.n
et/e-course.htm to get an astonishing free e-course that
reveals the short-cut secrets to training any dog in 21 days!

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Related Dog Training Schools Articles

Cha Cha and her Bully Stick

Ran to PetSmart after leaving church on Sunday to get her a few things: a nail clipper, potty pads and some treats. I invested more than I wanted to for a guillotine clipper with a built-in quick finder, but Cha Cha wasn’t havin’ it. I let her sniff the clipper and get comfortable with it. I was able to only get to one nail, which indicated I was clear of the quick (that’s a cool little feature), but I was not fast enough with the clip and she yelped and jerked and pulled her paw back. I don’t think I hurt her – I think it was the sensation and pressure of the blade on her nail. However, I was spooked and tried to use a nail file instead. Epic fail. I might just take her back to the groomer and let them do it. I’m certain Cha Cha can pick up on my nervous energy.

One treat I bought her is a favorite of hers and mine: the Bully Stick.

Introduced to them by her dog trainer back in August 2008, the Bully Stick has been a godsend. These firm sticks, made of a dried bull tendon, can keep her occupied for a long time. In fact, after gifting her with the Bully Stick on Sunday, Cha Cha proceeded to chew/play with it for two straight hours. Do you know how much I got done while she was preoccupied?!? I tend to take it away from her while she is actively chewing it, which continues to make it appealing to her. If she gets bored with it before I take it away, it simply becomes another toy. Although a Bully Stick tends to run about $15-20 (depending on the size), it’s a great investment. A good one, like the Red Barn to the right, can last MONTHS!!!

Chewing as a Negative Behavior

Of course, many dogs love nothing more than to chew up your shoes, books, and other household items (which have your unique scent all over them). If this is the case, then rawhide bones can help ease your pup’s urge to chew on the “wrong” things, and refocusing her energy into the “right” things, such as a bone. But please note that if your dog is chewing up your entire home, she’ll probably need more than just a bone to solve her behavior problem.  She probably needs more exercise—both mental and physical.

Rawhide Bones: The Real Deal

There are pros and cons to giving a dog rawhide bones.  Your typical rawhide bone (the one in the grocery store or at Wal-Mart) has a tendency to break easily and may cause choking. Similarly, these cheap bones expand very quickly inside your dog’s stomach and may cause severe constipation.  Also, if your dog is a very aggressive chewer, these regular rawhides don’t last long…as you’ve probably already discovered.

Compressed (top) vs. Regular (bottom)

Compressed for Better Health

On the other end of the spectrum, compressed rawhide bones will last much longer than the standard variety.  Even better, compressed rawhide bones are much less likely to fracture, thus reducing your dog’s chances of choking. Actually, the compressed rawhide bones are about the only thing we’ve found so far that will keep Riley occupied for more than 30 minutes.  It usually takes her at least an hour to chew through half of a 10.5 inch bone.  And sometimes, to peak her interest in the bone, we’ll even put some peanut butter on it.  We find that after she licks off the treat, she’ll continue chewing the bone for a while.

Like any other toy, compressed bones work best when you don’t leave it out for the dog to chew at her leisure. Instead, store it out of sight and then pull it out when you decide to give her a special treat.  This makes sure that your dog won’t get bored of the bone.  With this method, she’ll think it’s a special treat that only comes out once in a while.  And rawhides, like any other treat, should always be monitored.

Size it Up

Get a bone large enough for your dog.  And, I want to drill this into your head, any time your dog is chewing on a toy or bone, make sure to supervise them just in case.  Oh, and if you have a large dog, we found it best to throw the remaining bone out once it gets small enough for her to accidentally swallow.

Riley’s Review:

Sometimes when my parents are busy I chew on my ‘pressed bone.  And I get really into it!  Any dog can be a great chewer like me, but they’d have to be really focused and ready to go at it 100%.  If you get the ‘pressed bone on the side of your mouth and squish really hard, it’ll make the bestest satisfying sound.  It usually gets very gooey and chewy once I really work it, but I kinda like it that way.  Overall, I recommend the compressed (but not the regular supermarket) rawhide bone for any pooch who just loooooves to chew hard.  But if you don’t want to chew really hard, then you probably won’t like ‘pressed rawhide. Sorry for you!

Doglirious Rating (out of 5)

Dog Dental Care is Critical

Understanding Your Dog’s Mouth

Before you can successfully care for your pooch’s pearly whites, you should first learn how the teeth develop and operate. Let’s start from the beginning. Dogs are born without any teeth and then grow them two to three weeks later. At two months, puppies have about 28 temporary teeth, including incisors, pre-molars and cuspids (“canines”). But these temporary teeth are short-lasting; dogs begin losing them 1 month later. By the time they reach six months, a dog has roughly 42 permanent teeth. As with human infants, this period of a dog’s life is marked by severe discomfort and pain. Most dogs—like human babies—will chew relentlessly and mouth anything in sight to ease the irritation. An adult dog’s mouth typically includes 12 incisors (the small front teeth) which are used for personal grooming and picking up small objects. Alongside those, four long, pointed cuspids allow your pooch to puncture food and other large pieces. These edible chunks are then passed to the middle of the mouth where 16 premolars begin slicing; finally, 10 molars in the very back grind and crush the remaining fragments into digestible portions for easy swallowing.

Proper Dog Dental Care

First and foremost, you must remain aware of what your dog eats and plays with. Compressed rawhide bones, knobby rubber toys, and dental chews are critical components of dental hygiene; these products aren’t hard enough to damage teeth and actually assist in the tartar-removal process. On the other hand, small toys and most real bones should be closely monitored, since they can pose significant problems if they’re broken into pieces and then swallowed.

How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth

Ongoing oral hygiene for your dog is actually quite simple. There are just a few basic steps to learn. In fact, the most important factor is not so much the length or duration of each individual brushing or grooming session, but rather in the consistency with which you do it. It’s far better to clean your dog’s teeth a couple of minutes every other day than to have a single marathon brushing once per week. There are several toothpastes and toothbrushes designed especially for dogs at the pet store. Oh, this is a great time to advise you not to use any toothpaste or other oral hygiene product designed for people (i.e. Crest, Colgate, etc.) with your pooch. People ‘paste contains irritants, bleaches, and fluoride, which is not good for the stomach. Of course, we humans typically spit and rinse out most toothpaste residue, but our four-legged pups aren’t likely to follow our lead. They only know two actions: chew and swallow.

Starting the Oral Care Regimen

If you’re just starting out, we recommend the finger brush, a small hood worn over your finger with soft rubber bristles on one side. A similar product is used for human infants, and the principle is the same. You’re using a familiar object (your finger) to introduce the dog to an unfamiliar experience (teeth brushing). Oh, and while you’re inside the mouth, be sure to massage the gums and check for any signs of tartar, which appears as a dark yellow film typically where the tooth meets the gum line. Once your pooch adjusts to the finger brush, you can later upgrade to a regular dog toothbrush. The actual brushing method is also important. To insure maximum effectiveness, try to keep the brush at a 45-degree angle, and be sure to spend time cleaning each tooth and gum line. Spend 1 minute making small circular motions, followed by an additional minute of vertical strokes. This two-minute, two-step process should dislodge those pesky food particles and discourage the formation of plaque. Ideally, try to brush your dog’s teeth several times a week.

Recognize the Red Flags

Due in part to their non-acidic saliva, cone-shaped teeth, and natural chewing habits, dogs rarely have tooth decay. However, if you notice chronic bad breath, oral bleeding, or other unusual periodontal activity, seek immediate veterinary attention. Infection is likely present, and professional help is necessary.