The Power of the BULLY STICK

Well. After Cha Cha’s plunge into the murky waters of the local conservation pond, I knew something had to be done. She ended up at Ketch, her doggie daycare, on Friday to burn off some of that pent-up energy. She must have had a blast, because my puppy was exhausted when I brought her home. There is nothing cuter than a 7-pound puppy laid across your lap, snoring her head off. I would’ve taken a picture, but didn’t want to wake her from her slumber while getting the camera.

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Cha Cha and her Bully Stick

Ran to PetSmart after leaving church on Sunday to get her a few things: a nail clipper, potty pads and some treats. I invested more than I wanted to for a guillotine clipper with a built-in quick finder, but Cha Cha wasn’t havin’ it. I let her sniff the clipper and get comfortable with it. I was able to only get to one nail, which indicated I was clear of the quick (that’s a cool little feature), but I was not fast enough with the clip and she yelped and jerked and pulled her paw back. I don’t think I hurt her – I think it was the sensation and pressure of the blade on her nail. However, I was spooked and tried to use a nail file instead. Epic fail. I might just take her back to the groomer and let them do it. I’m certain Cha Cha can pick up on my nervous energy.

Doglirious recommends the Bully Stick

One treat I bought her is a favorite of hers and mine: the Bully Stick.

Introduced to them by her dog trainer back in August 2008, the Bully Stick has been a godsend. These firm sticks, made of a dried bull tendon, can keep her occupied for a long time. In fact, after gifting her with the Bully Stick on Sunday, Cha Cha proceeded to chew/play with it for two straight hours. Do you know how much I got done while she was preoccupied?!? I tend to take it away from her while she is actively chewing it, which continues to make it appealing to her. If she gets bored with it before I take it away, it simply becomes another toy. Although a Bully Stick tends to run about $15-20 (depending on the size), it’s a great investment. A good one, like the Red Barn to the right, can last MONTHS!!!

The Truth About Rawhide Bones

Dogs are proficient chewers. This, of course, has allowed them to hunt, gather, and eat for the thousands of years in existence before human domestication. So chances are, your pup still maintains a strong primal desire to chew and gnaw. Luckily, today’s product manufacturers are catching on, and there are plenty of toys and games which can provide hours of beneficial chewing exercise for dogs.  The focus of this article is rawhide bones, which actually help keep your dog’s breath fresh and her teeth plaque free.

Chewing as a Negative Behavior

Of course, many dogs love nothing more than to chew up your shoes, books, and other household items (which have your unique scent all over them). If this is the case, then rawhide bones can help ease your pup’s urge to chew on the “wrong” things, and refocusing her energy into the “right” things, such as a bone. But please note that if your dog is chewing up your entire home, she’ll probably need more than just a bone to solve her behavior problem.  She probably needs more exercise—both mental and physical.

Rawhide Bones: The Real Deal

There are pros and cons to giving a dog rawhide bones.  Your typical rawhide bone (the one in the grocery store or at Wal-Mart) has a tendency to break easily and may cause choking. Similarly, these cheap bones expand very quickly inside your dog’s stomach and may cause severe constipation.  Also, if your dog is a very aggressive chewer, these regular rawhides don’t last long…as you’ve probably already discovered.

Rawhide Bone Comparison

Compressed (top) vs. Regular (bottom)

Compressed for Better Health

On the other end of the spectrum, compressed rawhide bones will last much longer than the standard variety.  Even better, compressed rawhide bones are much less likely to fracture, thus reducing your dog’s chances of choking. Actually, the compressed rawhide bones are about the only thing we’ve found so far that will keep Riley occupied for more than 30 minutes.  It usually takes her at least an hour to chew through half of a 10.5 inch bone.  And sometimes, to peak her interest in the bone, we’ll even put some peanut butter on it.  We find that after she licks off the treat, she’ll continue chewing the bone for a while.

Like any other toy, compressed bones work best when you don’t leave it out for the dog to chew at her leisure. Instead, store it out of sight and then pull it out when you decide to give her a special treat.  This makes sure that your dog won’t get bored of the bone.  With this method, she’ll think it’s a special treat that only comes out once in a while.  And rawhides, like any other treat, should always be monitored.

Size it Up

Get a bone large enough for your dog.  And, I want to drill this into your head, any time your dog is chewing on a toy or bone, make sure to supervise them just in case.  Oh, and if you have a large dog, we found it best to throw the remaining bone out once it gets small enough for her to accidentally swallow.

Riley’s Review:

Riley Chewing Her Rawhide Bone

Sometimes when my parents are busy I chew on my ‘pressed bone.  And I get really into it!  Any dog can be a great chewer like me, but they’d have to be really focused and ready to go at it 100%.  If you get the ‘pressed bone on the side of your mouth and squish really hard, it’ll make the bestest satisfying sound.  It usually gets very gooey and chewy once I really work it, but I kinda like it that way.  Overall, I recommend the compressed (but not the regular supermarket) rawhide bone for any pooch who just loooooves to chew hard.  But if you don’t want to chew really hard, then you probably won’t like ‘pressed rawhide. Sorry for you!

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What do you like to give your dog to chew? We’d love to hear it!

Dog Dental Care: Tools & Toys for Healthy Teeth

Dental care experts report that without proper oral hygiene, 75% of dogs show signs of dental disease by three years old. As a result, your dog’s dental care should be emphasized now more than ever; with the ever-growing selection of foods, treats, other delectables comes an even higher prevalence of dental disease in dogs. Canine Gingivitis, gum infections, and other periodontal problems create harmful bacteria which can get into your pup’s bloodstream and damage her heart, lungs, liver, intestinal tract, and kidneys. Familiarizing your pooch with home dental care is the best way to ensure long-term oral health. Coupled with regular veterinary check-ups, most irritation and tartar formation can be treated in the early, preventable stages.

Dog Dental Care Photo

Dog Dental Care is Critical

Understanding Your Dog’s Mouth

Before you can successfully care for your pooch’s pearly whites, you should first learn how the teeth develop and operate. Let’s start from the beginning. Dogs are born without any teeth and then grow them two to three weeks later. At two months, puppies have about 28 temporary teeth, including incisors, pre-molars and cuspids (“canines”). But these temporary teeth are short-lasting; dogs begin losing them 1 month later. By the time they reach six months, a dog has roughly 42 permanent teeth. As with human infants, this period of a dog’s life is marked by severe discomfort and pain. Most dogs—like human babies—will chew relentlessly and mouth anything in sight to ease the irritation. An adult dog’s mouth typically includes 12 incisors (the small front teeth) which are used for personal grooming and picking up small objects. Alongside those, four long, pointed cuspids allow your pooch to puncture food and other large pieces. These edible chunks are then passed to the middle of the mouth where 16 premolars begin slicing; finally, 10 molars in the very back grind and crush the remaining fragments into digestible portions for easy swallowing.

Proper Dog Dental Care

First and foremost, you must remain aware of what your dog eats and plays with. Compressed rawhide bones, knobby rubber toys, and dental chews are critical components of dental hygiene; these products aren’t hard enough to damage teeth and actually assist in the tartar-removal process. On the other hand, small toys and most real bones should be closely monitored, since they can pose significant problems if they’re broken into pieces and then swallowed.

How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth

Ongoing oral hygiene for your dog is actually quite simple. There are just a few basic steps to learn. In fact, the most important factor is not so much the length or duration of each individual brushing or grooming session, but rather in the consistency with which you do it. It’s far better to clean your dog’s teeth a couple of minutes every other day than to have a single marathon brushing once per week. There are several toothpastes and toothbrushes designed especially for dogs at the pet store. Oh, this is a great time to advise you not to use any toothpaste or other oral hygiene product designed for people (i.e. Crest, Colgate, etc.) with your pooch. People ‘paste contains irritants, bleaches, and fluoride, which is not good for the stomach. Of course, we humans typically spit and rinse out most toothpaste residue, but our four-legged pups aren’t likely to follow our lead. They only know two actions: chew and swallow.

Starting the Oral Care Regimen

If you’re just starting out, we recommend the finger brush, a small hood worn over your finger with soft rubber bristles on one side. A similar product is used for human infants, and the principle is the same. You’re using a familiar object (your finger) to introduce the dog to an unfamiliar experience (teeth brushing). Oh, and while you’re inside the mouth, be sure to massage the gums and check for any signs of tartar, which appears as a dark yellow film typically where the tooth meets the gum line. Once your pooch adjusts to the finger brush, you can later upgrade to a regular dog toothbrush. The actual brushing method is also important. To insure maximum effectiveness, try to keep the brush at a 45-degree angle, and be sure to spend time cleaning each tooth and gum line. Spend 1 minute making small circular motions, followed by an additional minute of vertical strokes. This two-minute, two-step process should dislodge those pesky food particles and discourage the formation of plaque. Ideally, try to brush your dog’s teeth several times a week.

Recognize the Red Flags

Due in part to their non-acidic saliva, cone-shaped teeth, and natural chewing habits, dogs rarely have tooth decay. However, if you notice chronic bad breath, oral bleeding, or other unusual periodontal activity, seek immediate veterinary attention. Infection is likely present, and professional help is necessary.

What have your dog’s teeth-brushing experiences been like? We’d love to hear your stories!